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Papers relating to the climb featured in and the publication of 'Eiger Direct', by Dougal Haston, Peter Gillman and Chris Bonington.

 Fonds
Identifier: Acc.14376/1-16

Scope and Contents

The records here all relate to the climb made in 1966 of the north face of the Eiger. The purpose of the climb had been to establish an alpine style, direct route up the north face of the mountain. A team of British and American climbers (Chris Bonington, Mick Burke, Peter Gillman, John Harlin, Dougal Haston, Layton Kor and Don Whillans) attempted the climb in March 1966. The climb was troubled by bad weather and tragedy when a rope broke, sending Harlin to his death.

There was wide-spread publicity surrounding the climb, partly due to the fact a German team were also attempting the same ascent at the time. The teams were using different methods of climbing to try to reach the summit - the British-American team were planning on climbing Alpine style, while the German team were using the Himalayan method. As events transpired, their routes converged and the two teams cooperated and assisted each other during the climb. Scot Dougal Haston and four members of the German team reached the summit on 25 March 1966.

The records here relate to the climb itself and the publication of a book by Haston and Gillman with photographs of Bonington entitled ‘Eiger Direct’, which was published by Collins in 1966. The records have been organised by those directly relating to the climb being arranged before those relating to the subsequent publication. Among the most significant records here include the tape recordings of communication between the climbers on the mountain face with those on ground, and the manuscripts of Haston and Gillman for the published book.

Dates

  • Creation: 1966-2018.

Creator

Conditions Governing Access

Normal access conditions apply. Data Protection principles may apply to some of the records.

Conditions Governing Use

Normal reproduction conditions apply, subject to any copyright restrictions.

Extent

0.00 Linear metres (2 box, 1 folder and digital files.)

Language of Materials

English

Arrangement

The records created and used during the climb have been arranged before those relating to the writing and publication of the book. Some related miscellaneous correspondence has then been placed at the end of the sequence.

Language of description
English
Script of description
Latin

Repository Details

Part of the National Library of Scotland Archives and Manuscripts Division Repository

Contact:
Archives and Manuscript Division
National Library of Scotland
George IV Bridge
Edinburgh EH1 1EJ
0131 623 3700